The thing to remember is that the boat is very lightweight for its size, and therefore has very little momentum. This makes it a LOT easier to row (less weight, as well as less wetted surface area), but also harder to tack. A tradeoff like everything else.
In general, the trick is to build up boat speed, get close to 45 degrees, and then tack by turning tighter and tighter as the boat slows. Backwinding the jib can also help, but generally is not necessary once you get used to the process.
In specific:
- Make sure the jib halyard (black with green checks) is tight. As tight as you can pull, basically. A loose jib halyard spoils the jib shape and loses a lot of lift.
- Make sure the centerboard is all the way down. Any rake in the centerboard will move the center of leeway resistance aft, introducing a lee helm, and making the boat hard to tack.
- Make sure both sails are generating lift. This will mean that both sails will have a gently-curving airfoil shape without luffing. If they don’t have this shape, they won’t be generating enough lift to pull you forward quickly enough to get through a tack.
- When beating, you probably want the mainsheet as tight as it will go without spoiling the telltails or heeling too much. Even more important, haul the jib in until you think it's in the right spot, let it out until it starts to luff, and then gently pull it back in just until it stops luffing. This is key.
- Again, in light wind, the jib sheet tension is key. If the jib is generating lift, it will generate enough drive and speed to pull the boat through the tack. If the jib sheet is too tight, the sail will create a lee helm, and will make the tack difficult or impossible. Everyone I've had on the boat so far, with the exception of Kevin Jeffrey, has pulled the jib too tight.
- Telltales will be important on each sail. You can read all sorts of detail on how to trim using telltales, so I’ll just offer a very basic summary. For the jib, you want the leeward telltales streaming aft. If they are fluttering, tune the sail (most likely by letting out slightly on the jib sheet). For the main, you want the aft telltales pointing aft. If they are pointed leeward, let out on the mainsheet. If they are pointed windward, pull in.
For each tack:
- Bear up hard on the wind. In light winds, the boat won’t have enough momentum to tack through 120 degrees -- it wants to go from 45 to 45.
- Ease off just a bit in order to build up boat speed, gently get back to 45 degrees, and then tack. You may need to let the jib sheet out a few inches to get that boat speed you need -- close-hauled is not a recipe for speed.
- When tacking, do a "nautilus" turn, starting with a large radius and continually turning and tighter until you've got the tiller past the coaming.
- This is because you need to cut a balance between a gentle turn, which is required to avoid scrubbing speed, and a tight turn, which is required to turn the boat before it drifts to a stop. However, the middle ground doesn't really work; it's neither gentle enough to keep the speed up, nor tight enough to turn the boat.
- So the trick is to do both. Start with a gentle turn when the boat speed is at its max, and as the boat slows, move the tiller further and further, turning the boat tighter and tighter. At the start, the tiller may be at 5 degrees; by the time the bow is near the center of the wind window, it could be at 45 degrees.
- Pull the slack out of the windward jib sheet. Not enough to affect the jib at all – just enough to get rid of the slack.
- Once the jib becomes useless, uncleat it and let it luff so that it doesn’t contribute any force that would get in the way of tacking the boat.
- If the wind is really light, or if you've not yet mastered the technique, backwind the jib by pulling the leeward sheet taught as soon as the bow hits the center of the wind window. Release the tension and switch the jib to the new side once the boat is definitely finishing it tack.
- Switch sides in the boat and bring the rudder back to center as soon as you move through the center of the wind window. It’s easy to forget the rudder and then end up not moving after the tack.
- Switch the jib and secure it, making sure it’s relatively loose (a tight/flat jib will make it hard to get started again).
- Adjust the mainsheet, start moving, then adjust the jib sheet.
In light wind:
- Follow the above procedures. Getting proper sail shape will be critical for generating enough lift and forward speed to allow the boat to turn through a tack.
- I know it sounds repetitive, but it’s true. It’s very easy to oversheet in light wind, spoil the sail shape, and then not tack.
In heavy wind:
- Follow the above procedures. Getting proper sail shape will be critical for generating enough lift and forward speed to allow the boat to turn through a tack.
- Yes, the same advice, again. The challenge in big wind is that the lack of shrouds allows you to let way out on the mainsheet, which spoils the drive of the mainsail. It’s useful in a gust, but if you try to sail that way, you’ll notice that the main no longer has a nice airfoil shape, which means it’s no longer pulling you forward. So, ironically, you end up going so slowly that you can’t tack in a 15-knot wind.
- Thus: reef (see below). How much? Enough to where you can sail the boat with both sails properly trimmed into gently curving airfoil shapes. Once you’ve got the shape right, you should be able to tack in any wind.
- I know it sounds repetitive, but it’s true. It’s very easy to undersheet in heavy wind (when you should really reef instead), spoil the sail shape, and then not tack.
It's just a matter of getting to know the boat. You could add 500 lb of ballast and give it a lot more momentum, but then you probably wouldn't want to row it. Fortunately the technique is not hard once you get accustomed to it.
Remember, our first tack in June didn't work, but then our next few did as I coached you through the process. In August we were able to tack easily in two to four knots, and even tacked in one knot by backwinding the jib.
- Make sure the wind is still at least slightly to windward.
- Haul in all the way on the mainsheet so that there’s no slack. It doesn’t have to be real tight; just not slack.
- Pull the jib in to eliminate slack in the jib sheets. Pull in on the windward jib sheet so that there’s not much slack.
- Turn the boat until the wind is on the other side.
- Pay out the mainsheet.
- Switch the jib and pay out the jib sheet.
First reef
- Head into the wind.
- Handle both the throat halyard (red) and peak halyard (black) as a single unit.
- Uncleat the mainsail halyards together, lower the sail until the first reef point is a few inches above where the tack of the mainsail used to be, and re-cleat both halyards.
- Switch the mainsheet S-hook to the first reef point. Adjust the mainsheet and boat angle.
- Tension the starboard double-check downhaul.
- Adjust the peak halyard (black) to get proper sail shape.
- Tie the sail up with the first set of reef points (black) with reef (square) knots.
- Consider switching the port single-check downhaul to the second reef point if you think the wind will keep building. Otherwise, leave it where it is. You can always switch it later.
Second reef
- Head into the wind.
- Handle both the throat halyard (red) and peak halyard (black) as a single unit.
- Uncleat the mainsail halyards together, lower the sail until the first reef point is a few inches above where the tack of the mainsail used to be, and re-cleat both halyards.
- Switch the mainsheet S-hook to the second reef point. Adjust the mainsheet and boat angle.
- Switch the port single-check downhaul to the second reef point on the luff, if not already switched. Tension the port single-check downhaul.
- Adjust the peak halyard (black) to get proper sail shape.
- Tie the sail up with the second set of reef points (white) with reef (square) knots.
- Consider switching the port single-check downhaul to the second reef point if you think the wind will keep building. Otherwise, leave it where it is. You can always switch it later.
As far as timing goes, with practice, the steps from lowering the sail to securing the mainsheet in the new grommet should take less than ten seconds, and it should take less than another ten seconds to fix the downhauls. As for how long it takes to tie up excess sail, that can take longer because the boat will already be under control.
- Head at least partially into the wind.
- Uncleat the inactive jib sheet.
- Uncleat the active jib sheet.
- Holding just enough tension in the active jib sheet to keep the sail up, furl the sail with the furling line. Note: if you put too much tension on the sheet, the sail won’t furl completely – this is the nature of self-furlers.
- Cleat the furling line.
- First reef will be the mainsail.
- Second reef will be either the mainsail or the jib. Usually the mainsail.
- Third reef will be either the jib or the mainsail (whatever is left over). Usually the jib.
- Jib furled.
- Mainsail down and in cockpit.
- Both downhauls out of their cleats.
- Hook onto mooring.
- Rudder up, rudder lift line tensioned so that the rudder shackle is pointing up, cleated, and then wrapped around the tiller, finished in a clove hitch. Note: the worst case here is that the rudder will pop down into the water if it’s not properly secured, and since it’s been epoxied, glassed, and varnished, it should survive the process. However, it’s still nice to be extra-sure.
- Tiller cleated into place. I like to run a line from one cleat, around the tiller with a clove hitch, and then to the opposite cleat.
- Engine turned to zero, and turned off.
- Unfurl jib, re-furl with a minimum of tension on the jib sheet, until the clew gets to the furled luff. At that point, hold both jib sheets in front of their cleats, with the left hand, lift the hand a foot or two above the dodger, and fully furl the sail with the jib sheets gently tensioned by the left hand. Make sure there are a few turns of the sheets around the furled sail in order to keep it in place during a storm. Slightly tension the jib sheets in their cleats (don’t pull so tight that the sail starts to unfurl more than a turn or so).
- Tie the mainsail at the luff, peak halyard, and at the rear of the gaff.
- Fit on the mainsail cover, moving it as far forward as possible. Getting the peak halyard aft of the first snap is ideal. Aft of the second snap is less ideal, but also fully acceptable.
- Pull in on the peak halyard until the gaff is at the desired angle, then pull in on both the peak and throat halyards until the sail is at the desired height – roughly with the hoops halfway up the durabak section.
- Fit the port single-check downhaul into the gap in the stainless hinge on the top hoop where the gaff meets the hoop. Tension the downhaul to lock the hoops into place.
- Unhook the mainsheet shackle from the traveler and fasten it to the port jib fairlead. Optionally unhook the traveler and fasten its shackle to the fixed side.
- Hook the mainsheet onto the sail cover, tension just tight enough to hold the sail in place.
- Centerboard up and cleated.
- Position oars where they can be stowed without grinding on any other components. I like to put the blades in the aft section on top of the dock lines, the first rubber/leather section on the aft thwart, and center the oarlock on the leather. That way nothing rubs on anything.
- Position the dinghy where you can get to it once the cover is snapped.
- Snap on the cover. I like to zip both sides of the front onto the dodger first, then work my way back two or three snaps at a time, alternating sides.
- Install the pole once you get one snap past the end of the centerboard trunk.
- Finish the snaps and step into the dinghy. The last few snaps could theoretically be done from inside the dinghy.
- Uncover boat. I prefer to unzip the port side, unsnap four or five snaps, and then step into the center of the boat, holding onto the dodger frame for support. Then unsnap the remaining snaps.
- Centerboard down. All the way down. Raise and lower it a few inches at the bottom to make sure it’s fully down.
- Rudder in the water.
- Tiller un-cleated.
- Engine on, turned to zero.
- Oars ready to go, with oarlocks on the sockets.
- Uncover the mainsail.
- Uncleat the port single-check downhaul and switch it to the tack of the mainsail.
- Drop the mainsail into the cockpit and untie the sail ties.
- Tension both mainsail halyards just enough to make them taut, but not enough to move the mainsail.
- Loosen the mainsheet to where you think you’ll need it while sailing, then attach its S-hook to the mainsail clew.
- Hook the traveler up, if required.
- Unhook the mainsheet shackle from the jib fairlead and fasten it to the traveler.
- Cast off the mooring. Optionally, start rowing or motoring to get the boat into position.
- Pull in on the peak halyard (black) enough to raise the gaff to the angle it will be at while sailing. This will ensure that the aft end of the gaff properly lifts the leech of the mainsail, and also that the gaff hoop does not bind on the mast.
- Now pull on the peak halyard (black) and throat halyard (red) as a single unit, lifting the sail all the way up.
- Cleat both halyards.
- Tension the port single-check downhaul so that there are no wrinkles or loose sections along the mainsail luff.
- Adjust the peak halyard (black) for sail shape.
- Get into position, adjust the mainsheet, turn off motor if desired.
- Slightly tension the leeward jib sheet.
- Unfurl the jib.
- Have fun.
- Verify the trailer is happy and healthy, with good bearings and tires, and that any tie-downs or ratchets are with it. Make sure you have a spare tire and spare lug nuts.
- Prepare the boat according to the “Mooring the boat” instructions above, with the exception of the oars and cover – you’ll need the cover off to maneuver the boat onto the trailer (obviously), and might want the oars to assist with the process.
- Make sure figure-eight knots are in the ends of all control lines so that they don’t pull out of their cleats and fairleads.
- Drop the jib to the deck, still furled, pull it into the cockpit, and secure it.
- Maneuver the boat onto the trailer. Once the boat is secure, slacken all three halyards enough to where you can gather them to the mast and then have at least another foot of slack in order to lift up the top mast section.
- Two feet below the mast joint, tie the two peak halyard (black) lines together with the section of the throat halyard (red) line that descends from the mast head to the throat of the gaff. These wills stay to the aft of the mast when raising/lowering the top section. Tie this tightly, with a few wraps, so that it doesn’t go anywhere as the mast is moved around.
- Do the same thing to the two jib halyard lines and the forward section of the throat halyard (red) line. These lines will stay forward of the mast when raising/lowering the top section.
- Tie a line around the upper mast section a few inches above the joint, with several tight wraps, to ensure that the forward lines stay forward and the aft lines stay aft.
- Remove the top mast section and place it in the cockpit, masthead aft, taking care not to rotate it and tangle the lines.
- Tension the jib sheets and put as much of the jib into the cockpit as possible.
- Tie down the boat to the trailer.
- Verify the trailer is secured at the ball, with both chains, and electric connector, and that the roller jack is in the up position.
- Head out.
- Verify the trailer is happy and healthy, with good bearings and tires, and that any tie-downs or ratchets are with it. Make sure you have a spare tire and spare lug nuts.
- Verify the trailer is secured at the ball, with both chains, and electric connector, and that the roller jack is in the up position.
- Tie down the boat to the trailer.
- Verify everything you need is there: oars, battery, sails, control lines, etc.
- Verify the drain plug is in the boat.
- Make sure figure-eight knots are in the ends of all control lines so that they don’t pull out of their cleats and fairleads.
- Uncleat the jib sheets.
- Position the upper mast section on deck, ready to lift, then make sure that the aft lines lead aft and the forward lines lead forward.
- Lift the upper mast section and lower it onto the stub mast, keeping it as vertical as possible. It’s possible (though unlikely) to crack the bottom of the upper mast section by getting a centimeter of the mast onto the stub and then bending it back and forth. Straight up and down is a lot easier and safer.
- Again verify that forward lines go forward and aft lines go aft.
- Undo the line ties.
- Verify that all lines are in the correct positions, and fix things if they are not.
- Hoist the jib, tensioning the halyard nice and tight.
- Get the oars and/or the motor ready.
- Put the boat in the water.
- Prepare the boat according to the “Setting out” instructions above.
- Head out.
DURABAK
Durabak is the semi-indestructible coating used to keep the parrels (hoops) from grinding through the mast. The coating that's there is two years old, and probably would have lasted much better if I'd sprayed it with sailkote dry lubricant first, in order to allow the parrels to swing back and forth.
You'll want Durabak 18 smooth. There's a rough variety that's *very* nonskid, and would not be a good match for a mast. The "18" is necessary because that indicates the product is UV stabilized -- original Durabak is not.
I recommend the quart size at $40.
I don't recommend the gallon size because it costs $120, and beyond the price, you can't keep opening and closing a can.
You may be able to get a few years out of a can if you fill the container with nitrogen or propane before re-sealing. Nitrogen is definitely safer, but propane is a lot cheaper. One note: the product is so tenacious that once you put that lid back on, it's not coming off. Period. I did my second coat/use by using a can opener on the bottom of the can. Perhaps filling the canister with gas, then covering it with saran wrap, and then sealing, will work. That way the product will stick to the plastic.
The product is moisture-cured, so the drier it is when you close the can, and the more you can fill it with an inert gas, the longer it will last.
Here's a link for quarts of Durabak 18 smooth:
http://www.durabakstore.com/vmchk/durabak18-smooth-quart
You can also purchase Durabak directly from Durabak at:
http://www.durabakcompany.com
(I just didn’t see a link to the quart-sized series-18 product there)
MCLUBE PRODUCTS
McLube's SailKote is a dry lubricant that will make just about anything that moves work better. I'd use it on snaps, zippers, the insides of the parrels, and the mast, particularly the Durabak secions. Applied to new or cleaned sails, this product will keep them from absorbing water or dirt. Their OneDrop lubricant is also the only one recommended by Harken for their ball bearings.
HullKote is a product I'm going to try this fall on my old Starwind monohull before I sell it. It's wipe-on/wipe-off product that's supposed to leave a serious shine for a while year while also repelling UV light, dirt, stains, and water. It's also very fast and smooth, repelling underwater growth and waterline stains. The testimonials are impressive, as are the photos.
The key here is to keep the hull shiny and UV-protected, which protects the gelcoat, which protects the fiberglass. Plus, if you keep the gelcoat in good shape, you'll get better resale. Something like HullKote will also keep dirt from building up in the first place.
You can get McLube products at Defender.com:
http://search.defender.com/?expression=mclube
ISLAND GIRL PRODUCTS
Island Girl make some impressive boat cleaners, restorers, and polishes. They aren't cheap, and their shipping/service is well-intentioned but flaky, but they do have good stuff.
I used their Mirror-Hard Superglaze the last two years on the Norseboat and it lasted well. More importantly, like HullKote, it's wipe-on/wipe-off, taking a heck of a lot less effort than a wax.
Given the state of the shiny deck sections, which are a bit dull and stained, what should really be done is to compound them with a good traditional compound and then seal them with a good polish like HullKote or Superglaze. I was just too lazy to do it. I also should have used the Island Girl Simply Brilliant Superwax first, which would have created a smooth/shiny surface, and then applied the Superglaze to seal it. The Superglaze does do a great job of sealing and protecting, and will it will make a smooth surface shine brilliantly, it won't make a dull surface smooth.
Another product you might be interested in is their nonskid sealant. I applied it once to the nonskid and it beaded water for two years, without getting slippery. That's a great way to make the nonskid last a long time, and will also keep stains out of the surface.
Island Girl can be found here:
http://www.islandgirlproducts.com/index.html
Their web site is lousy and bewildering, but if you know what you want, you can find it. All I can say is that the products work (just see the testimonials), but that the site was designed by the engineer who created the coatings. Not even a trace of a web design or marketing professional.
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