Realink,
I agree with most of what you write, but have been debating a
different approach. Debating -- I'm not sure if I like my own logic
yet.
The base system would be a Raymarine EV-100, 150, or 200
autopilot:
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/raymarine--evolution-ev-100-tiller-sail-autopilot--14907745
I've been using an ST-4000 with the ball-drive linear tiller
actuator for ten years now and have grown to like it a lot. On a
daysailer, which obviously is different than a cruiser.
It integrates with the rest of the marine electronics, including
the wireless TackTick instruments and the chartplotter, so it can
sail on a specific course, sail to waypoints laid out on a nmea 2000
chartplotter, and also sail relative to the wind. Note: sailing to
the wind is not as instantaneous as using a wind vane, but it's
still quite handy.
The wireless remote is great, so the electronics and control head
can all stay inside the boat (or at least under cover and slightly
out-of-the-way). It also has different levels of sensitivity, so
you can give it several seconds to correct course in steady wind and
calm seas, using less power, and then adjust it to very quick course
corrections in gusty wind, chop, or steep/short following seas; the
fastest setting is even quicker than sailing by hand, catching
really minute course changes that I wouldn't try to react to (I've
only used the fastest setting for testing).
The actuator has no controls on it, just a waterproof cable that
connects to a waterproof plug, and I remove it to store it inside
the boat when on the mooring. It's mechanical, and will eventually
wear out, but since the part is as low as $350 if you shop
carefully, you could get a six-pack for $2,000.
Then, either:
a) Two autopilots, one for each tiller, with the other one
dormant when heading "backwards". A $1,800 cost penalty, but it
also provides built-in online redundancy if one of the pilots
fails. Since you generally wouldn't use an autopilot when
short-tacking, using one or the other probably would not be too
bothersome.
b) A single autopilot, but two directional sensors, one for
each direction, with a toggle switch to flip between the two.
I'd probably beef up the exterior waterproof plug with a secondary
waterproof cover designed as an added precaution.
---
The first argument against it is that it costs too much. The
second is that the actuators will fail before hydraulic ones.
However...
- So much money is being saved by going with the HP in the first
place that the few thousand dollars extra still yields a total far
below an equivalent trimaran.
- It's really simple and redundant. If the actuator goes, swap
it out. With six on board, you can go through a lot of failures and
still be auto-piloting.
- No hydraulics, hoses, fluid, fittings, or spare parts to
repair and/or keep track of.
- Just one wire cable leading to the actuator.
- It's nice to be able to adjust sensitivity, sail by waypoints,
sail by the wind, and use the remote. It's quite handy to dodge
boat traffic and lobster buoys on the way back home while putting
sails away, or hang out on the bow tramps while motoring and still
be able to steer.
- You can always switch up to a below-decks mechanical or
hydraulic linear drive, or hydraulic steering, if the
redundant-mechanical-actuators theory doesn't pan out.
With an outboard for power and the wired/mechanical tiller
actuator, there's almost nothing belowdecks to fail, leak, catch
fire, or repair.
Sadly, I'm not sure a spare outboard in mothballs makes sense
weight-wise. But the outboard is still pretty handy in terms of
getting the motor serviced.
Perhaps a 20 hp ultra-long-shaft motor, at around 120 lbs,
wouldn't be too much extra weight to carry.
- Mike
Just keep in mind Im clueless and have no idea what Im
talking about
Having said that, 'if' this machine was electric ...
Ive never quite appreciated how expensive AP is, and if
you look at Raymarine stuff its really bonkers cheap built
with the cheapest of parts and fails regularly. The tiller
pilots are a bunch of plastic gear wheels and rubber
belts, a 'very' cheap motor that wouldnt exceed 20 watts
which is like $5 on todays technology and a simple inbuilt
fluxgate compass, which it probably doesnt need. Dont get
me started on their wheel steer AP.
Looking around the business I used to have a throw away
line about helicopter technology being somewhat underdone,
as at the time you could buy a model helicopter with
features like heading hold and altitude hold that would
make a chopper pilots life much simpler that full sized
helos costing millions didnt have. In the interim decades
however newer design helos have incorporated these
features.
Back to the toys, they have a simple gyro costing in
the order of $70 - $250 that allows a trim which you can
set first statically then control via radio. Its job is to
position the fuselage direction in such a way that when
deviated from path the circuitry activates a servo which
re-establishes the heading. Its called simply heading
hold. Rather like tiller steer, you establish a heading
and press a button for the equipments linear drive to hold
you on course automatically. Push the model off course and
heading hold will bring it back unfailingly.
Now Im aware the marine product can do other things
like work with a chart plotter to eliminate leeway, but
Ive always felt like the former course keeping is all I
really need. I just find it curious that a few hundred
bucks in parts and a linear drive becomes $4 grand.
Having made you read all this nonsense and deviated
somewhat from the question at hand I should just mention
that the aforementioned model is an electric machine, and
you use the same equipment to steer the thing with or
without the gyro 'on'. Just an idea but if the energy
consumed by 30 watts of current could easily be replaced
wouldnt linear drives make things just a tad simpler, and
more useful to have a form of autopilot to boot.
Well just a thought, .... as you were ...
cheers to all BTW ..