Thanks Bill

That seems to make a lot of sense to me.

Rob has asked me what I want in a boat. I don't really feel qualified to answer intelligently. In thinking about it, I thought to sail more, in as many different boats as I can (lucky me), to see if I can't get better idea of what is valuable to me. And to ask people what thus want in a boat, and why.

But you make great points.

Rob seems all about reducing complexity and cost. I think his telescoping mast is a race thing. But simple enough.

I think the harryproas are a dry boat. IIRC, some early blind date videos show some people on the deck getting splashed a little, but i think that was a refinement thing. Bow shape was blunt, needed sharpened, right?

The windows needing 'noseeum' screens seems pretty easy to do?

Other than that, probably your priorities are pretty much everyone's priorities. I think they are mine.

If kevlar fuzzes and stands proud of the surface when sanded, how hard is it to repair?

On April 26, 2018 12:33:28 PM UTC, "Bill Strosberg lists@strosberg.com [harryproa]" <harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au> wrote:

 

eruttan:

Seaworthiness is more a function of the sailor and not the boat.   A 10m
Harryproa certainly could be equipped and sailed in a seaworthy
fashion.  In my (questionably valuable) opinion Harryproa designs are a
good foundation for safe sailing as long as potentially complex,
expensive and unproven features are avoided (like telescoping masts for
reefing).  Simple is always better than complex.  It is important to
avoid being a beta tester for new features.

Here wet and cold can be a major adversary - even during the summer.  My
comments about vacuum infused foam sandwich hulls were a nod to dry and
warm interior space being a good idea.  Good protected cockpit space and
a relatively dry boat are important here as well. By dry I mean a boat
where you aren't being constantly hosed by cold spray.

Anchoring off and having a second anchor/line off the shore end of the
boat is pretty standard here - the shore line often gets tied off to
trees or rocks.  Most of the shorelines here are rock - finding a sand
beach or even mud isn't easy.  Rob is right that Kevlar is a pain to cut
- I buy really good shears at Lee Valley Tools to cut it.  It is also a
miserable bugger if sandpaper gets near it - it frizzes up instantly. 
For Huron, Georgian Bay, Superior and northern Michigan I'd say Kevlar
is a good choice.  For Erie, St. Clair, Ontario, southern Michigan, St...
Lawrence and Champlain I'd probably not bother with Kevlar.  It all
depends on venue.

I used to paddle a lot of whitewater and Kevlar patches are standard
fare wherever boats come in contact with sharp rock.  Just sliding a
faired fibreglass hull on a broken rock fragment can scratch right
through the glass to core.  I hate longboarding so Kevlar is worth it to
me.  Lots of rock shards here have fresh cracks and breaks from winter
ice every year - it is not like rounded ocean stones that have been
polished for centuries by sand and tides.

I'm building a self-designed boat - there are elements I like about
Rob's designs and some things I like about other designs.   Mine is
focused towards trailerable coastal camp cruising with interior space
for two to sleep inside the hull (on single bunks) - tramp camping in
cold, wet insect-rich country isn't desired.  A cockpit boom tent is
fine for cooking and lounging on the hook.

Cost is a major factor for me so many of my design choices are skewed
towards light weight, high cruising speed, dry camp-cruising
accommodations and fast build for one or two people.  To achieve this,
I'm willing to accept that my priorities will also come at elimination
of many things others would find important.  What is perfect for one
person may seem terrible for others.

Best wishes,

--
Bill