Now I get it -- the drawings helped a lot. I was imagining
something way more complex. Thanks for explaining instead of taking
it personally.
You know, the design could be rotated 90 degrees so the beams
swing around each other horizontally instead of vertically.
That way the boat won't tilt when folding (could be worrisome if
the mast is tall), the beams will be flat and continuous when
joined, and you could also cut out a section of each beam so they
mate as one long piece. The beam would be strongest vertically,
with less stress on joining pins.
There are some smaller metal parts/struts needed, but none of
these carry any load when the boat is folded or unfolded, so not a
big deal.
While II lean towards the scissors because it would probably be
stronger while folding, I have to say that this beats the scissors
in the challenge -- it's going to be lighter and cheaper while still
allowing the boat to fold on the water.
Thanks.
- Mike
robriley@rocketmail.com [harryproa]
wrote on 6/13/2015 5:26 PM:
I think you might have the wrong idea of what was intended for
the parallelogram
2400mm (8ft) to 3600mm (12ft) there abouts
Like Farriers it depends on what are probably metal links
between the hulls illustrated as lines in the diagram, each
around 600mm (2ft) long. There are other ways of doing the same
thing, like using open top rectangular sockets to accept the
beams on top of the weather hull etc. It would also be
acceptable to have the joints in different places, its just a
diagram to illustrate how it might work.
There is 400mm (1ft 4in) difference vertical gap in the middle
diagram so obviously it cants over slightly
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z179/realink_album/Image1_zpsaexqjcaj.jpg
image
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z179/realink_albu...