Subject: Re: [harryproa] Fine tuning design questions
From: Rob Denney
Date: 5/3/2009, 11:35 PM
To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au
Reply-to:
harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au



G'day,

here is fine.  Answers follow questions
>
> 1) What is the "best" beam clearance for a harry-sized boat? I figure
> 2' min and 3' max. The higher, the more force on the rudders. The
> lower, the more wave impact. What do you think?

A bit more to it than max and min (boat weight, cabin and cockpit set
up, beam location), but basically yes. The rudders can easily be made
stronger, the wave impact will be a pain every time it happens.

>
> 2) Does a bit of rocker help? If I am going to go with carved foam for
> the "front" 25% of the hull, I could give the hull a little rocker as
> easiliy as not. Would that help turning? If so, should I then lengthen
> the ww hull to give it a better length/beam ratio?

My boats tend to lean forward and sit on rocker, so I don't use it.
Will help turning, but with to rudders, you don't need help.
>
> 3) I have drawn the ww and lw hull with as small a beam as I think I
> can get away with.. 20" for ww and 12" for lw. Increasing that beam a
> little will give me a better walkway in the ww hull and easier access
> into the lw hull. If I increase to 22" ww and 18" lw, will I be giving
> up significant speed?

The longer and skinnier the better, but as long as it does not drop
below 11:1 l:b, you will be fine.
>
> 4) I read in your harrigami papers that you put a bulkhead 26" back
> and (I think) carved the last 2 feet of bow out of foam. Is that the
> recommended procedure, or do I bring the foam sandwich forward as far
> as possible and just round off the bow?

The carved foam was originally a strip plank trick, but it makes an
excellent fender, so I would go with it. No other reason for not
extending the panels forward.
>
> 5) Cutouts for hatches - do I cut these out of the foam before
> infusion, or do I make solid panels and then cut the hatches into it
> after assembling the panels into a boat?

Should be able to make the hatches and the bulkheads in one hit,
ensuring they are a perfect match. Taper the edges and they will not
need a flange.
>
> 6) How do I know if the sail plan I drew up will really work? Is this
> calculated, or do you just have an "eye" for it? I am particularly
> referring to the use of the screacher on the extended jib boom.

Lots of calculations, but too many variables, the trickiest being the
size and "fall off" of the mainsail roach. Make balance part of the
criteria for the sailmaker. Until he gets it, he doesn't get paid.

regards,
Rob
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Gardner
>
>

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