You are probably at a disadvantage if you have not bought plans and tried some building. It will become clear. I see the sam emechanism to work on a swin gdown mast that is very good idea to Side car and probably bigger.   Doug --- On Wed, 10/12/08, Gardner Pomper <gardner@networknow.org> wrote: From: Gardner Pomper <gardner@networknow.org> Subject: Re: [harryproa] Re: Kickup rudder steering? To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au Date: Wednesday, 10 December, 2008, 1:55 AM Hi, As usual, I am not clear on this. I thought that the Blind Date rudder design had a single continuous foil that slid up and down through the bearings, so that the rudder could be raised and lowered. Are you saying there is now a rudder post and a rudder with a knuckle at the joint? Then the rudder post is square, so that the rudder post can slide up through the steering "quadrant"? If it is done this way, it would seem that the maximum amount the rudder can be raised or lowered would be the distance from the bearings (at the beam) to the water, and when it is raised, the top of the rudder will be flush against the bearings, and would not be able to kick up. Am I understanding what you are saying? - Gardner On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 9:28 AM, jjtctaylor <jtaylor412@cinci. rr.com> wrote: Hi, Both Rob and I intend steering control to be ABOVE (near the bearings) the kick up pivot point. The pivot will be on a knuckle below the bearings assy. Steering control will never be lost. We started out with the design philosophy as you have shown and was tested on Blind Date, but determined it better to keep steering function separate from pivot. So no matter if grounded and the rudder shears a knuckle pin (or whatever) and it floats up, there will still be some marginal control. Marginal is good as the torsional load on the shaft will increase greatly. The only problem presented in this method is the location of the shear/ fail device is below the beam. Suggested air cylinder can be designed so rupture disk or other fail device is easily reachable from the beam. Bigger boats have bigger problems. Best to decide which is to fail and not combine too many axis of rotation in our failure methodology. JT --- In harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au, "Gardner Pomper" <gardner@...> wrote: > > I am particularly curious about the kick up rudders on the larger boats. I > can see how it works when you just have a tiller in your hand, mounted to > the top of the rudder. What I am having difficulties seeing is what > mechanism allows you to have remote steering (like a wheel), while also > having the rudders kick up and also be raised and lowered, all without > adjusting the steering connections. Having a "quadrant" at a fixed position > seems like a possibility, but it still seems that something would move when > the rudder kicks up that would end up pulling (or snapping) your steering > cable. > - Gardner > > On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 4:56 AM, Doug Haines <doha720@...> wrote: > > > g'dAY, > > > > I'm fairly well practiced with making kick up rudders on side car - but not > > yet had look at the new system, but expecting to use bungy cord and rope > > tied together like I use on Sidecar. > > Wondering where to mount the aft rope that pulls it down. > > Not at that building stage of Harriette yet, should be soon. > > > > DougH > > At TAFE class near Fremantle > >

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